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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.